Mt. Amadablam Expedition with Island peak - 35 Days
ISLAND PEAK 6160m & Mt. AMADABLAM, 6812m Climb
Mt. Ama Dablam (22, 501 feet/6812 meters) is one of the most challenging mountains among the other mountains not only inside the Nepal but also in the world. The normal route to climb Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak lying in the Everest region. This South – West ridge is the normal and most popular route in order to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam.
In addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible.
The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.
Our ascent will be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and four camps above base camp. The climb can often be completed easily in less than four weeks; however we do build in an extra week in case of exceptionally bad weather. The climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. Although we can brush-up your skills at base camp, a good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory: prior experience is required. This might involve a couple of weekend sessions at your local cliff or bridge.
Objective danger on the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason we recommend you to have an experienced guide to keep you safely on track. & strong local climbing Sherpa team to help us on the mountain. The Sherpas are the key to success. They carry and assemble our tents, fix much of the rope and supply each camp with food, stoves and gas cylinders. Without the aid of Sherpas the chances of success are diminished and all your hard work can be wasted. Often the Sherpas are able to stock camps with sleeping bags as well! This then allows each climber to focus on getting up the hill. Your guide will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, service and success. Your guide will be climbing with you at all times, often assisted by a climbing Sherpa. Your guide and Sherpa will ensure your safety and make decisions regarding safety and weather. Your guides perform cooking and other camp duties. This allows you to rest and enjoy your surroundings at each of the camps. You are then left to carry only your personal gear between camps.
We will recommend you to have minimum of 1:2 climbing sherpas, a camp one cook, base camp cook, one kitchen boy and a message runner. We can add extra Sherpas if required). We use a lot of Sherpa power and we have exceptional food in base camp and on the mountain. Our tents are all high mountains quality and roomy enough to enable you to enjoy a comfortable nights sleep. If you want the best chance of success– this is it! We provide the highest quality commercial operation available on Ama Dablam.
Ama Dablam is considered to be the technical & difficult & challenging peak for all the mountaineers. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal start/end with the Lukla. It involves a cultural & exciting trek up to the base camp & also involves technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of world’s highest & famous mountains.
Named "Island Peak" in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed "Imje Tse" in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to summit. From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. Again, stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.
In the case of extended bad weather we can extend the trip by up to one week. Although this doesn’t happen very often, it is a possibility. In such a case our KTM office can make the necessary changes to air tickets etc. Our other option is a helicopter charter from base camp. This would then shorten the time taken to get from BC to KTM for your connecting flight should time becomes a premium. This extra helicopter cost is not in our budget, however! Contingency plans do exist and will be discussed at the time
We promise to provide the finest service in the industry, which starts on arrival in KTM & end on the day of your international departure which strongly includes the successful climb of Mt. Ama Dablam by the support of our strong, technical, communicative, Co -operative sherpa staffs all the time & our excellent base camp services to the personal attention you will receive on your trip so that we always try to provide you the best services without any comment.