Island Peak

Trip Cost
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  • Duration 20 Days
  • Trip Difficulty Strenuous
  • Style Peak Climbing
  • Accomodation Lodge + Camping
  • Destination Nepal
  • Food Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner
  • Transportation: Aeroplane / Tourist Bus
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About Trip

Island Peak  or Imja Tse (6,160m/20,205ft.)     
Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area

This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

South East Flank & South-West Ridge :
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult. 

North Ridge Route:
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+. 

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01:Arrive Kathmandu
  • Day 02:Kathmandu.
  • Day 03:KATHMANDU/ LUKLA/ PHAKDING (2500 m.) 3-4 HRS. WALK
  • Day 04:PHAKDING/ NAMCHE BAZAAR (3440 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK
  • Day 06:NAMCHE/ THYANGBOCHE (3867 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK
  • Day 07:THYANGBOCHE/ PHERICHE (4240 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK
  • Day 08:PHERICHE/ LOBUCHE (4930 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK
  • Day 09:LOBUCHE/ GORAK SHEP (5160 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK
  • Day 10:GORAKSHEP / KALAPATTAR (5545 m.) / DINGBOCHE (4350 m.) 6-7 HRS.
  • Day 11:DINGBOCHE/ CHHUKUNG (4,730m) 3-4 HRS.
  • Day 13:ISLAND PEAK BC/ ISLAND PEAK Peak Summit (6,160m)/ back to base camp 10-12 HRS.
  • Day 14:ISLAND PEAK BC/ PANGBOCHE (3,985m) 5-6 HRS.
  • Day 16:NAMCHE/ LUKLA( 2800 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK
  • Day 18:KATHMANDU
  • Day 19:Final Departure

Detail Itinerary

  • Day 01Arrive KathmanduUpon arrival at Kathmandu Airport. Receive, assist and transfer to the hotel. Balance day free. Overnight in the hotel.
  • Day 02Kathmandu. A trip orientation meeting will be organized.
  • Day 03KATHMANDU/ LUKLA/ PHAKDING (2500 m.) 3-4 HRS. WALK Your flight to Lukla from Kathmandu is usually early in the morning. In good weather there are superb views of the Himalayan chain. At Lukla, your trekking crew will receive you, and lunch will be served before starting your trek. After lunch, trekking starts from Lukla gradually descend towards the “GHAT VILLAGE” and the valley of Dudh Koshi River flowing from the Mount Everest Area. After crossing the Dudh Koshi, Overnight stay in lodge at Phakding.
  • Day 04PHAKDING/ NAMCHE BAZAAR (3440 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK After breakfast you follow the Dudh Koshi River to Benkar and on to Jorsale. The lunch stop will be between the two bridges built by Sir Edmund Hillary near the confluence of Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi rivers. At one point on the route we may get our first sight of Mt. Everest 8848 Meter. After lunch it will be about two hours ascend to Namche Bazaar. Namche Bazaar gateway to all famous expeditions to Khumbu Himal Peaks. It is also the trading centre of the Sherpas of the region. Overnight lodge at Namche Bazaar.
  • Day 05HALT DAY AT NAMCHE BAZAAR A necessary rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, local excursion and to explore surroundings. Overnight stay in the lodge.
  • Day 06NAMCHE/ THYANGBOCHE (3867 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK Traverse the slopes eastwards to the big Chorten on the trail Khumjung/Sangnasa. Descend to the bridge of Dudh Koshi - Imja Khola at Phunki. Ascend northwards to Thyangboche for the overnight stay in lodge.
  • Day 07THYANGBOCHE/ PHERICHE (4240 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK After crossing Imja khola, the trail ascends gradually to Pangboche. Lunch will be served. After lunch, the trail enters into the broad valley of Pheriche for the overnight stay in lodge.
  • Day 08PHERICHE/ LOBUCHE (4930 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK Trek on flat ground along the bank of Tsola Khola, till the terminal moraine of Khumbu glacier is crossed. From Phalong Karpo, follow the western bank of the glacier to reach Lobuje for your night halt in lodge.
  • Day 09LOBUCHE/ GORAK SHEP (5160 m.) 5-6 HRS. WALK From Lobuje the trek leads to Khumbu Glacier and passed through a flat area. This place is known as Gorak Shep. Beyond Gorak Shep one can see Khumbu Icefall. Area close to Ice fall has been used as base camp for all Everest Expeditions in the past. Time permitting visit EVEREST BASE CAMP (5400 m.). Overnight stay in the lodge.
  • Day 10GORAKSHEP / KALAPATTAR (5545 m.) / DINGBOCHE (4350 m.) 6-7 HRS. An excursion to the famous Kalapattar and back to Dingboche for the night stay in the lodge
  • Day 11DINGBOCHE/ CHHUKUNG (4,730m) 3-4 HRS. Dingboche is a summer settlement and here the great peaks of Ama Dablam, the ridge of Nuptse-Lhotse, Tawache and Chalotse surround us. Begin today’s trek to Chhukung through stone-walled fields, Imja Khola valley before walking in glacier moraines. On our walk, we will be surrounded by Lhotse and Ama Dablam mountains. Later, beyond Bibre village a view of Island Peak can be seen. The trail ahead is intersected by icy streams. We reach Chhukung, a small settlement in about half an hour from Bibre. From here, directly across the valley is the fantastic Ama Dablam and the Amphu Labsa mountains. Overnight in the lodge at Chhukung.
  • Day 12CHHUKUNG/ ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP(5,200m) 3-4 HRS. The trek to Island Peak Base Camp is on a fairly steep trail. First, we climb south then turn east to the main line of the valley. We then walk on a winding path below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Next, we continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisscross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island Peak. Afternoon, We begin our pre-climb training. Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak climbing, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience. Usually we will be climbing on rock surface for up to around 5770m. After that, we climb on ice and use ropes when necessary. However, the use of the rope and the length depends upon the season and the crevasses. Overnight at Island Peak Base Camp in tent.
  • Day 13ISLAND PEAK BC/ ISLAND PEAK Peak Summit (6,160m)/ back to base camp 10-12 HRS. Wake up early today at around 12 pm to 01 am and have our breakfast before beginning our climb. It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the highlands might become a barrier for a successful summit. The trail moves up beyond the base camp for several hundred meters before striking off the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As we climb up the hill, we will see that the slope narrows and the trail enters a steep rock channel. We climb the rock gully. This is not difficult, but there are several short rock steps to climb before we emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. The guides will fix a rope when required. A steep snow slope leads us onto the summit ridge. Both fixed rope and main rope will be used during the climb for safety. We use fixed rope after successfully climbing on rock. The length of the rope will usually be of 350m. However, the length depends on the time of the season and the crevasses There are two newly formed crevasses which are approximately 3 and 4 meters long. We will be using ladders to cross them. After spending some time with the summit views, and capturing the memorable pictures, descend all the way to Island Peak Base Camp. Overnight tent.
  • Day 14ISLAND PEAK BC/ PANGBOCHE (3,985m) 5-6 HRS. Today’s walk will be a much easier as we descend to the lower altitudes. Following the same route back through the wide valley of Khumbu Khola, we pass through the beautiful Sherpa villages Orsho and Shomare. We can also take a different trail to visit the Gompa in Upper Pangboche, which is believed to be the oldest in the Khumbu region or take the regular trail to reach Pangboche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the Imja Tse River flowing through the wide fertile valley. Overnight lodge.
  • Day 15PANGBOCHE/ NAMCHE BAZAAR 4-5 HRS. From Pangboche we retrace our steps down to the Imja Khola and up through the forest to Tengboche. We continue through the hillside blanketed by rhododendron and juniper trees. After crossing the bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, our trail follows the Dudh Koshi gorge descending rapidly through the pine forests before reaching Sansa. After passing a chorten, we reach at Namche Bazaar. Overnight in the lodge at Namche Bazaar.
  • Day 16NAMCHE/ LUKLA( 2800 m.) 6-7 HRS. WALK Follow the course of the Dudh Kosi river re-tracking the same way back to Lukla for an overnight stay in lodge. Your airtickets for the following day’s flight to Kathmandu shall be reconfirmed by your Guide today.
  • Day 17LUKLA / KATHMANDU After breakfast, check-in at the Lukla airport to fly back to Kathmandu.
  • Day 18KATHMANDUFree day in Kathmandu for personal activities. Evening Traditional Nepalese Farewell Dinner with cultural program.
  • Day 19Final DepartureFinal departure transfer to the airport for onward flight.

Trip Map

What's Includes:

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • 3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food and accommodation
  • Down jacket and sleeping bag  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • AMTREK’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map are yours to take
  • All necessary paper work; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipments
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)
  • All government and local taxes

What's Excludes:

  • Nepalese visa fee
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg of luggage, a cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, internet,  laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters